Turkey Traveller

Black Cat Coffee came highly recommended to me as the best coffee in  Eskişehir and certainly didn't  disappoint . At first glance Black Cat Coffee is a fairly ramshackle affair in an endearing kind of way that adds to its charm. Its back street location a little away from the hustle and bustle of the city centre is refreshing as you can sit on a  relatively quiet pavement, chatting and smoking undisturbed.  The coffee house is filled with a collection of random objects and mismatched furniture that suggests that its primary purpose is the serving of quality coffee. The staff are relaxed and friendly and the service is unhurried in a good way, the coffee itself is superb with a decent selection of coffee beans from around the world, e ach cupful of coffee is freshly ground just before it's served (apparently this is where the magic lies).  Price wise it is also well worth a visit at just 5TL for a latte. Located in  Eskibağlar mahallesi Bayd...

 More about Eskisehir: Eskisehir Sivrihisar Yazilikaya Platform/Midas City .

Eskisehir is a city I return to on a regular basis, and I consider it my home city in Turkey, over the last decade or so it has undergone a huge amount of change and positive development. Every time we return there is something new, improved or restored mostly due to the vision of one man Mayor Yılmaz Büyükerşen. This video by heritage heroes recognises his achievements in this role. The Mayor has said he wants Eskisehir to be a role model for other Anatolian Cities, something he has undoubtedly achieved, every time you tell another Turk you are from Eskisehir they immediately all most always comment on how beautiful and successful the city is …. ah Eskişehir cok guzel demi? More about Eskisehir Eskisehir Sivrihisar Yazilikaya Platform/Midas City

The Ihlara valley is a stunning gorge cut in the volcanic rock of the Cappadocian plateau by a small river that runs through the centre. The valley is both breathtakingly beautiful and historically fascinating. Inhabited by monks from the 4th to the 14th centuries the valley is littered with ancient rock cut Byzantium churches and hermit holes. If you like walking and are interested in nature and history then The Ihlara valley is a must to add to your itinerary, the main route meanders along the lightly wooded valley floor next to the river bed, as you make your way along there are signs on either side pointing to different rock cut churches you can explore, most of which are cut into the face of the valley side and are a bit of scrabble to reach. Many of the churches have frescoes some in very good condition some defaced, the churches vary greatly in condition there are over 60 in the valley, the most popular ones are: Direkli Kilise (Column church) Agacalti Kilise (Under tree chur...

Kaymaklı underground city differs from the one at Derinkuyu in that it is distinctly more haphazard and has a sense of being randomly cobbled together, I also found it a lot more claustrophobic, the chambers are chaotically laid out and considerably smaller then the ones at Derinkuyu but it also has more of a sense of being an underground city you can imagine the smell and the hustle and bustle of a large number of people living cramped together in this way. Archaeologists estimate that Kaymakli could house between 3500 and 5000 people something well worth reflecting on whilst you wander the narrow insanely claustrophobic tunnels. Only the first four levels are currently open to visitors but there are eight levels that have been explored by archaeologists, whilst Kaymakli is not as deep as Derinkuyu it is considerably wider and to be honest after you explored the first few narrow low ceiling tunnels you will probably have lost any sense of depth or direction. Expect to see wine and oi...

We stayed at the Yunak Evleri Hotel in Urgup, Cappadocia for a short break last summer and can whole heartedly recommend it. The hotel offers a selection of different cave rooms depending on your requirements, all decorated to a very high standard with high quality fixtures and fittings. We stayed in two different rooms both had a Jacuzzi, walk in shower, hardwood floors, heating, antique furniture, beautiful kilim rugs , CD player, CDs and a small collection of books about Turkish arts and culture in a selection of languages. Outside both rooms had a small terrace with table and chairs where you could relax and watch the sunset. The cave rooms are original 5th century dwellings that have been adapted. Reception is a beautiful 19th century Greek mansion that sits in the centre of the site with the cave rooms carved into surrounding valley side. For breakfast they offer a buffet with a varied selection both continental and Turkish, all the staff where helpful, courteous and efficient. T...

Urgup is a picturesque little town about 20km from Nevsehir and a good location from which to explore Cappadocia. The accommodation in Urgup is a little bit more up market then the backpacker’s pensions you find in Goreme and is obviously targeting the more affluent. Many of the hotels feature cave room accommodation that has been decorated to a high standard, we stayed at the Yunak Evleri Hotel (Review here) and our cave room had the luxury of having a Jacuzzi. The old part of the town is full of old stone houses that remain from when the area was a Greek settlement, often with cave rooms. Most of the larger of these have been converted for use as classy pensions or hotels. Look out for the beautiful stone carvings and architectural features on some of the grander buildings that feature beautiful gated courtyards’ and decorations around arched doors and windows. The town centre is small but functional with easy access to everything you need, bus station, bank, restaurants, pharmacy, ...

These fairy chimneys in pasabagi are unique to this valley and feature bizarre large toadstool like caps which protect the rest of the chimney from erosion. The area was formerly a monastic retreat and used to be known as “monk’s valley” and features a rock cut church dedicated to St Simeon. Pictured above is the rock cut St Simeon’s chapel. Getting There Pasabagi can be found on the road between Zelve open air museum and Goreme. There is no entry fee. Around Paşabağı Goreme Derinkuyu underground city .

The Shoestring Cave Pension in Göreme is a charming and friendly pension in the heart of Cappadocia it offers a selection of dormitory rooms, rooms with shared facilities and ensuite rooms from as little as six Euros per night. The room we stayed is was clean and functional as you would expect from a budget hotel. The atmosphere is relaxed and friendly and has a very communal feel, in the evenings it is not unusual to find the staff and guest relaxing around the barbeque together swapping stories and sharing a glass or two of raki. Breakfast consist of a choice of various different things including gozleme(pancakes), omelettes and French toast. In the evening the BBQ cost 15 Turkish lira and is very reasonable. Upon arrival one of the staff members will put you through a sales pitch offering the various different tours on offer; if like us you are not interested to sit through this then should be no problem if you politely excuse yourself, which is what we did. I would particularly re...

Göreme is situated in central Turkey and forms part of the area informally known as Cappadocia. It is an area famous for its outlandish rock formations and fairy chimneys. Until recently Göreme was the name of the valley and the village was called Avcilar but for touristic reason the village also took the name Göreme. Unlike the other towns in the area Göreme is notable because the fairy chimneys and houses all blend into one making for an unusual and slightly bizarre looking town. In the mornings the sky above Goreme fills with hot air balloons as tourists and travellers get bird’s eye view of Göreme and the surrounding valleys. There is plenty to see in Göreme including the world famous Göreme open air museum and Göreme valley both listed as UNESCO world heritage sites, there are also so fascinating rock cut Byzantium churches. The town offers a charming combination of traditional village life combined with a tourist fuelled boom and cafe culture all set amongst the spires of the oth...

Derinkuyu is probably the largest underground city in the area, so far 11 levels have been discovered, all this is thought to represent only 10% of the entire excavation which descends to an unnerving 85 meters underground. Derinkuyu has a surface area of 2000 square feet with a possible 7000 square feet in all if you include the possible extent of areas yet to excavated. Of the 11 levels discovered only 8 are currently open to tourists. The rooms and tunnels in Derinkuyu are comparatively big so if you’re worried about feeling claustrophobic I would recommend visiting this one as opposed to Kaymakli, all though most people still find the atmosphere oppressive and the feeling of being so far underground in a confined space unsettling. Unique to derinkuyu underground city are the large religious school with a high ceiling and rock carved seating area. There is also a winery, cruciform church, chapel, stables, refectory, oil press and a large 55 metre deep ventilation shaft which you ca...

İnönü is a small township in Eskişehir Province, it was also the location of the İnönü headquarters building an important strategic centre in the two battles of İnönü, part of the Turkish War of independence. Recently the old Ottoman style İnönü headquarters building has been restored and turned into a war museum, so knowing this my wife and I decided to go and have a look one winter’s day. Arriving in İnönü it was easy to find İnönü, is small and the locals were friendly enough to give us directions, typically upon arrival at the museum we found it locked. It crossed my mind that it may have closed for lunch, so again we asked some locals who told us that it’s always locked and you have to get the key from the post office. The post master looked absolutely baffled “you want the key for the museum? You do realise this is the post office?” After a few more locals were pulled into the confusion a debate ensued and after some time it was agreed we should go to the municipal building, ano...

Sivrihisar (meaning pointed castle) is a charming little town in Eskişehir Province, the name is derived from the ruins of Sivrihisar castle and the pointed rocky granite hills that surround the town on three sides.The town has a long history and has been occupied by the Hittites, Phrygians, Seljuks and Ottomans. Sivrihisar has many beautiful (and some decaying) Ottoman houses and haphazard twisty roads. Like many other parts of Eskişehir Province recent times have allowed for some renovations so some of the Ottoman house have been recently restored to very high standard. The town is quiet and has an air of sleepiness about it as if no one is in much of a hurry, the centre usually has a few locals hanging around swopping pleasantries who are likely to show friendly curiosity in any visiting strangers. Sivrihisar is famed for its beautiful kilim rugs although you are unlikely to be able to buy one in the town, although I understand it is possible to buy new ones in one of the nearby vi...

The Yazılıkaya Platform also known as Midas city is in the county of Eskişehir in the Yazılıkaya (written rock) village, maps of the area marked with all the areas of cultural and historical interest in Eskişehir are available at the Eskişehir tourist information centre. The Yazılıkaya platform was first occupied by man in the early Bronze Age, there are considerable archaeological remains from the Hittite period and the whole platform is like a preserved Phrygian settlement. The Phrygians occupied the area after the decline of the Hittite empire and the Yazılıkaya Platform is thought to be the 7th century BC religious centre of the Phrygian culture. On the site there are approximately 33 ruins from the Phrygian period including the Midas monument (a monument built to the goddess Cybele at the behest of King Midas), Phrygian rock tombs, altars, ancient roads, fountains, gigantic underground cisterns, rock thrones, Phrygian monuments, inscriptions and a massive stone fortress. The Mi...

Eskişehir (meaning old city) is located on the banks of the river Porsuk in north-western Turkey in Eskişehir province on the main road and rail route between Ankara and Istanbul. Eskişehir is currently largely ignored by western tourists (although has a thriving tourist industry of visitors coming from the east) presumably due to its landlocked location and sometimes harsh climatical conditions. However Eskişehir is truly one of the gems of central Turkey, the city itself is very modern and beautiful and offers a range of eateries, shopping destinations, Turkish baths, nargile houses, museums and Ottoman architecture. The two universities give the cosmopolitan city a lively and youthful vibe; it’s a fantastic destination for foodies as the quality of the restaurants here is very high. The city has a few local delicacies including helva, boza and my personal favourite çiğ börek, a fine pastry mixture filled with ground meat, spices and onions then pan fried in hot oil and chased down ...