Turkey Traveller

The Ihlara valley is a stunning gorge cut in the volcanic rock of the Cappadocian plateau by a small river that runs through the centre. The valley is both breathtakingly beautiful and historically fascinating. Inhabited by monks from the 4th to the 14th centuries the valley is littered with ancient rock cut Byzantium churches and hermit holes. If you like walking and are interested in nature and history then The Ihlara valley is a must to add to your itinerary, the main route meanders along the lightly wooded valley floor next to the river bed, as you make your way along there are signs on either side pointing to different rock cut churches you can explore, most of which are cut into the face of the valley side and are a bit of scrabble to reach. Many of the churches have frescoes some in very good condition some defaced, the churches vary greatly in condition there are over 60 in the valley, the most popular ones are: Direkli Kilise (Column church) Agacalti Kilise (Under tree chur...

Kaymaklı underground city differs from the one at Derinkuyu in that it is distinctly more haphazard and has a sense of being randomly cobbled together, I also found it a lot more claustrophobic, the chambers are chaotically laid out and considerably smaller then the ones at Derinkuyu but it also has more of a sense of being an underground city you can imagine the smell and the hustle and bustle of a large number of people living cramped together in this way. Archaeologists estimate that Kaymakli could house between 3500 and 5000 people something well worth reflecting on whilst you wander the narrow insanely claustrophobic tunnels. Only the first four levels are currently open to visitors but there are eight levels that have been explored by archaeologists, whilst Kaymakli is not as deep as Derinkuyu it is considerably wider and to be honest after you explored the first few narrow low ceiling tunnels you will probably have lost any sense of depth or direction. Expect to see wine and oi...

We stayed at the Yunak Evleri Hotel in Urgup, Cappadocia for a short break last summer and can whole heartedly recommend it. The hotel offers a selection of different cave rooms depending on your requirements, all decorated to a very high standard with high quality fixtures and fittings. We stayed in two different rooms both had a Jacuzzi, walk in shower, hardwood floors, heating, antique furniture, beautiful kilim rugs , CD player, CDs and a small collection of books about Turkish arts and culture in a selection of languages. Outside both rooms had a small terrace with table and chairs where you could relax and watch the sunset. The cave rooms are original 5th century dwellings that have been adapted. Reception is a beautiful 19th century Greek mansion that sits in the centre of the site with the cave rooms carved into surrounding valley side. For breakfast they offer a buffet with a varied selection both continental and Turkish, all the staff where helpful, courteous and efficient. T...

Urgup is a picturesque little town about 20km from Nevsehir and a good location from which to explore Cappadocia. The accommodation in Urgup is a little bit more up market then the backpacker’s pensions you find in Goreme and is obviously targeting the more affluent. Many of the hotels feature cave room accommodation that has been decorated to a high standard, we stayed at the Yunak Evleri Hotel (Review here) and our cave room had the luxury of having a Jacuzzi. The old part of the town is full of old stone houses that remain from when the area was a Greek settlement, often with cave rooms. Most of the larger of these have been converted for use as classy pensions or hotels. Look out for the beautiful stone carvings and architectural features on some of the grander buildings that feature beautiful gated courtyards’ and decorations around arched doors and windows. The town centre is small but functional with easy access to everything you need, bus station, bank, restaurants, pharmacy, ...

These fairy chimneys in pasabagi are unique to this valley and feature bizarre large toadstool like caps which protect the rest of the chimney from erosion. The area was formerly a monastic retreat and used to be known as “monk’s valley” and features a rock cut church dedicated to St Simeon. Pictured above is the rock cut St Simeon’s chapel. Getting There Pasabagi can be found on the road between Zelve open air museum and Goreme. There is no entry fee. Around Paşabağı Goreme Derinkuyu underground city .

The Shoestring Cave Pension in Göreme is a charming and friendly pension in the heart of Cappadocia it offers a selection of dormitory rooms, rooms with shared facilities and ensuite rooms from as little as six Euros per night. The room we stayed is was clean and functional as you would expect from a budget hotel. The atmosphere is relaxed and friendly and has a very communal feel, in the evenings it is not unusual to find the staff and guest relaxing around the barbeque together swapping stories and sharing a glass or two of raki. Breakfast consist of a choice of various different things including gozleme(pancakes), omelettes and French toast. In the evening the BBQ cost 15 Turkish lira and is very reasonable. Upon arrival one of the staff members will put you through a sales pitch offering the various different tours on offer; if like us you are not interested to sit through this then should be no problem if you politely excuse yourself, which is what we did. I would particularly re...

Göreme is situated in central Turkey and forms part of the area informally known as Cappadocia. It is an area famous for its outlandish rock formations and fairy chimneys. Until recently Göreme was the name of the valley and the village was called Avcilar but for touristic reason the village also took the name Göreme. Unlike the other towns in the area Göreme is notable because the fairy chimneys and houses all blend into one making for an unusual and slightly bizarre looking town. In the mornings the sky above Goreme fills with hot air balloons as tourists and travellers get bird’s eye view of Göreme and the surrounding valleys. There is plenty to see in Göreme including the world famous Göreme open air museum and Göreme valley both listed as UNESCO world heritage sites, there are also so fascinating rock cut Byzantium churches. The town offers a charming combination of traditional village life combined with a tourist fuelled boom and cafe culture all set amongst the spires of the oth...

Derinkuyu is probably the largest underground city in the area, so far 11 levels have been discovered, all this is thought to represent only 10% of the entire excavation which descends to an unnerving 85 meters underground. Derinkuyu has a surface area of 2000 square feet with a possible 7000 square feet in all if you include the possible extent of areas yet to excavated. Of the 11 levels discovered only 8 are currently open to tourists. The rooms and tunnels in Derinkuyu are comparatively big so if you’re worried about feeling claustrophobic I would recommend visiting this one as opposed to Kaymakli, all though most people still find the atmosphere oppressive and the feeling of being so far underground in a confined space unsettling. Unique to derinkuyu underground city are the large religious school with a high ceiling and rock carved seating area. There is also a winery, cruciform church, chapel, stables, refectory, oil press and a large 55 metre deep ventilation shaft which you ca...