Turkey Traveller

Istanbul is the European capital of culture for 2010, to quote the website "The European Capital of Culture is a city designated by the European Union for a period of one calendar year during which it is given a chance to showcase its cultural life and cultural development." What this means for anyone travelling to Istanbul this year is a year long program of special events and sprucing up of existing attractions in Istanbul. Including new exhibitions and museums, special events celebrating Turkish music and culture including a music festival and other live performance arts, exhibitions celebrating the countries history of visual arts and a map of guiding you to traditional arts and crafts centers of Istanbul. At the height of the summer there will be an Ottoman style imperial performance in Sultanahmet square involving fireworks, acrobats, wrestlers, riders, horse races and martial arts. For more information about Istanbul as the European capital of culture for 2010 and a

We stayed at the Yunak Evleri Hotel in Urgup, Cappadocia for a short break last summer and can whole heartedly recommend it. The hotel offers a selection of different cave rooms depending on your requirements, all decorated to a very high standard with high quality fixtures and fittings. We stayed in two different rooms both had a Jacuzzi, walk in shower, hardwood floors, heating, antique furniture, beautiful kilim rugs , CD player, CDs and a small collection of books about Turkish arts and culture in a selection of languages. Outside both rooms had a small terrace with table and chairs where you could relax and watch the sunset. The cave rooms are original 5th century dwellings that have been adapted. Reception is a beautiful 19th century Greek mansion that sits in the centre of the site with the cave rooms carved into surrounding valley side. For breakfast they offer a buffet with a varied selection both continental and Turkish, all the staff where helpful, courteous and efficient. T

Urgup is a picturesque little town about 20km from Nevsehir and a good location from which to explore Cappadocia. The accommodation in Urgup is a little bit more up market then the backpacker’s pensions you find in Goreme and is obviously targeting the more affluent. Many of the hotels feature cave room accommodation that has been decorated to a high standard, we stayed at the Yunak Evleri Hotel (Review here) and our cave room had the luxury of having a Jacuzzi. The old part of the town is full of old stone houses that remain from when the area was a Greek settlement, often with cave rooms. Most of the larger of these have been converted for use as classy pensions or hotels. Look out for the beautiful stone carvings and architectural features on some of the grander buildings that feature beautiful gated courtyards’ and decorations around arched doors and windows. The town centre is small but functional with easy access to everything you need, bus station, bank, restaurants, pharmacy,

These fairy chimneys in pasabagi are unique to this valley and feature bizarre large toadstool like caps which protect the rest of the chimney from erosion. The area was formerly a monastic retreat and used to be known as “monk’s valley” and features a rock cut church dedicated to St Simeon. Pictured above is the rock cut St Simeon’s chapel. Getting There Pasabagi can be found on the road between Zelve open air museum and Goreme. There is no entry fee. Around Paşabağı Goreme Derinkuyu underground city .

The Shoestring Cave Pension in Göreme is a charming and friendly pension in the heart of Cappadocia it offers a selection of dormitory rooms, rooms with shared facilities and ensuite rooms from as little as six Euros per night. The room we stayed is was clean and functional as you would expect from a budget hotel. The atmosphere is relaxed and friendly and has a very communal feel, in the evenings it is not unusual to find the staff and guest relaxing around the barbeque together swapping stories and sharing a glass or two of raki. Breakfast consist of a choice of various different things including gozleme(pancakes), omelettes and French toast. In the evening the BBQ cost 15 Turkish lira and is very reasonable. Upon arrival one of the staff members will put you through a sales pitch offering the various different tours on offer; if like us you are not interested to sit through this then should be no problem if you politely excuse yourself, which is what we did. I would particularly re

Göreme is situated in central Turkey and forms part of the area informally known as Cappadocia. It is an area famous for its outlandish rock formations and fairy chimneys. Until recently Göreme was the name of the valley and the village was called Avcilar but for touristic reason the village also took the name Göreme. Unlike the other towns in the area Göreme is notable because the fairy chimneys and houses all blend into one making for an unusual and slightly bizarre looking town. In the mornings the sky above Goreme fills with hot air balloons as tourists and travellers get bird’s eye view of Göreme and the surrounding valleys. There is plenty to see in Göreme including the world famous Göreme open air museum and Göreme valley both listed as UNESCO world heritage sites, there are also so fascinating rock cut Byzantium churches. The town offers a charming combination of traditional village life combined with a tourist fuelled boom and cafe culture all set amongst the spires of the oth

Derinkuyu is probably the largest underground city in the area, so far 11 levels have been discovered, all this is thought to represent only 10% of the entire excavation which descends to an unnerving 85 meters underground. Derinkuyu has a surface area of 2000 square feet with a possible 7000 square feet in all if you include the possible extent of areas yet to excavated. Of the 11 levels discovered only 8 are currently open to tourists. The rooms and tunnels in Derinkuyu are comparatively big so if you’re worried about feeling claustrophobic I would recommend visiting this one as opposed to Kaymakli, all though most people still find the atmosphere oppressive and the feeling of being so far underground in a confined space unsettling. Unique to derinkuyu underground city are the large religious school with a high ceiling and rock carved seating area. There is also a winery, cruciform church, chapel, stables, refectory, oil press and a large 55 metre deep ventilation shaft which you ca